Thanks! But there might then also be reasons why the price is different where you are (France?) I do like the fact that its all eyelets and I like that in my boots. Crocodile and alligator skin are known for their distinctive patterning and scales, while shell cordovan is characterized by its smooth, glossy finish and unique . CHURCH do a first class resole service. But they look like a fairly smart pair of derbys, but one which will be pretty robust in that make and in the cordovan. Thanks Quentin. No I wouldnt. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. Isidore Horween made this adjustment after the invention of the disposable razor which decreased the demand for razor strops. Not pretty. I got it, the best way to learn whether it for you or not is to actually test it by yourself I imagine there are more like it. Feel free to send me a DM if none of your local retailers will. Did Trump tax exports of leather soled shoes? Theres a couple of nice ones on the Barrie Im eyeing. But these creases make cordovan look like its 20 years old, almost from the first wear. I find this to be true. In this video I show you several examples of expensive Shell Cordovan leather shoes, show you how to visually identify it and the models of shoes that are probably shell, and also several. Currently at 260, I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this price point. Have you seen the hudson loafer? Hi Simon I am deciding between Black or Burgendy (not colour 8) cordovan loafers. (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); Your email address will not be published. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. Thank you in advance. Can you just let your shell breathe, take a beating, and patina away? Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? I like the comfort, the all day wearability. Prototype meaning that its not available on BHL just yet? Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. I would also concur that the break-in period is about on par with non-cord shoes. That said, there is certainly a look with black loafers, which can be too easily dismissed if we just think of that as formal. Black would be best for the suits, and would work with some more casual outfits, but probably not all. I think the biggest thing that put me off most was just that normal, calf leather seemed more exciting. Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. Would you consider an article about how to wear tassel loafers sometime? They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. Theyre really nice. Alden seem to have a large love-hate following online which has so far made me steer clear of them (even though I really like the darker shade of their col 8), but Ive been looking to purchase a pair of cordovan loafers a while now myself. Bet that poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes. 2. See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. Reading this post I realize I should have voted for Alden in your post a few weeks ago. I had these loafers for years but eventually the cordovan gave out at one of the ripples. But, Im not sure that Id pay $800+ for a new pair. And ideally a darker no8 shade, but not as big a factor. Am I alone therefore in finding it curious to see its use in loafers and often offered with leather soles? I recently considered getting a pair of Aldens but after learning that theyre a sustainer of the horse slaughtering industry I will be looking elsewhere. Interested in how you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers. I had one pair of Alden loafers in #8 years ago when I lived in the States. Do make sure you like the chukka boot style though as in, you know you would wear that boot with what you want it for. Color 8 is by far the most common color of shell cordovan available. Definitely my favorite shoes. Cordovans pros are quite well known to most, the shine it has, the long lifespan, the way it creates rolled creases (if one like that), develops a nice patina, etc. My father and grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition amongst us here in New England. Perhaps because it is a multi-generation family-owned business with a unionized workforce that sells everything they produce? Thanks BTW: I totally get your preference of color 8 over black. Correct me if Im wrong, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty smart suits? Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. Truly, the two best things you can do for your shell footwear, is to brush it regularly, and store it with shoe trees between wears. But be super picky with regards to sizing, cuts, and tears. I think that shows how Alden from a make point of view is really mid-range or lower the expectations get rather inflated outside the US by the prices, and particularly the extra price of cordovan. i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. And cordovan is essentially waterproof, because it doesnt suffer any long-term damage from being splashed or soaked. Allow to dry using the method above . They obviously look different, but wondering whether youd have them in the same category as not being obviously better than brown or black. Please do not wear black shoes with jeans. I have just one question: do we know whether any of the colours in the C&J cordovan range are in fact color no. To clean it up, lightly dampen a rag with a small 50/50 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. Loafers in France are usually either elongated in the Italian style, or chunky (boxy ?) Thanks so much and take care! Later in the day I read this article. Grandat bought them in the early 90s. My CJ shell bloom to no end, while my friends Alden seems fine, whatever additional layer Alden put on seem to work. The pigment from the cream will mostly stay embedded within the wax itself. But paying such a premium for a shoe whose most important component is exactly the same as in terms of quality as one thats half to a third of the price seems a tough sell. We use traditional techniques to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products. Any recommendations regarding color and style would be appreciated. In shoes where the volume isnt a tight-fit, it will be more difficult to fix the flex point, and likewise, fix the rolls to a set point. I have covered them a little here, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time. It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. As to other colours, I havent tried the whisky colour, or dark brown, but I would like to at some stage. Your email address will not be published. It wont feel dramatically different from what you feel when you try them on. George Wang (https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/) that black loafers work better with jeans than brown ones? I have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes by Alden and others because of two issues. At that time I dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan. Have you had any experience with Shinki cordovan? I know readers appreciate them too. But then I am biased as I really like Vass. I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). Unlined cordovan loafers. They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. Personally not the biggest fan of cordovan, though for a different reason (total ok with roll vs crease). Im looking forward to stopping by! Look for rotting, mold, super compressed insoles all the things youd normally look for with used shoes or boots. Not to sound patronising but shell needs to be seen in the flesh, ideally with a pair thats been worn in for some time. I recommend doing it after every wear, if you can. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. () I finally ordered the PS watch cap in red, and the rapid despatch and sweetly worded confirmation message already have me convinced it was a great decision to do so. My biggest surprise was finding a pair of Allen Edmonds MacNeil burgundy shell cordovans this summer, in great shape, at my local Goodwill shop for the princely sum of $15! Thank you. I was thinking of the boots with Barrie. Enjoy. Then, lightly dab & swirl stiff waxes, buffing a single droplet of water across the surface, will bring out the highest reflective shine. Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. The specific skills necessary to tan shell cordovan also mean less tanneries are capable of producing the material. Problem is, too, that most people cant wait 12 years for the fit to be right! I am inclined to pick black having looked at your black cordovan which one would you pick if you were me? You also mentioned brushing them the day you wear them. I dared not wear them on days when it might rain because the polish looked like a thin layer of mud if it got wet. Unless I want to go the MTO route, Ive got 1 rubber soled option from 6 offerings at Edward Green and 0 from 11 offerings at C&J, which I find puzzling! I havent tried it David, no. Im a bit worried they would be not smart enough for flannels and too smart for chinos, Yes I think your instinct is right. Simon why would you be reluctant to buy/wear a belt made of Cordovan ? They were never even close to being as dark as yours, rather a true burgundy. And how many of the vegan alternatives are plastics that wont biodegrade. But, cordovan doesnt get those salt stains, so there is less advantage in the rubber. Theyd also be handy in warmer weather, with the PS overshirt in dark brown, white tee and navy BHL chinos for example (you can clearly see me trying to justify them). Apologies if I might be slightly off-topic, but I couldnt find anywhere more relevant to ask you this question. You can store your shell shoes and boots using a shoe tree and kept inside cloth bags. And does it work with calf too, or only cordovan? Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. They are wide and flat, so theoretically, I would need pretty wide lasts to be comfortable. If youre not in the right financial position, your feet can wait. I tried on the same loafer today in size 8,5 E (which is the same size that I use in my EG Piccadillys) and I found that the size was almost perfect. I dont have any from Crocketts, but did have a pair from Edward Green (mentioned above). This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. Loafers seem popular, but I see markers also offering boots which given your comments seem heavy and perhaps less comfortable. It's tough to break in. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. Not so sure about navy What are your thoughts? Next time youre in NY it might be worth the 2 hour flight to Atlanta to visit Sid Mashburns flagship store here. I always have to in US sizes. Works like a charm and that is all they need as regards shoe care products. Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. : Obviously not leave them in direct sun for two months. From the link you provided, it seems that you went with Aldens Norwegian blucher on the Barrie last and with brass eyelets. This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. Kind of difficult to find a store and compare by myself in my area. Whether you should buy them is really up to you. This makes it noticeably more difficult to break in than calfskin and unless youre considering a shell cordovan belt, watch strap or leather wallet, youre gonna feel it. Well, it depends a little on how they make, but far more on your size and height. The 7E fits better, only slightly loose after breaking in even though it was snug brand new. I bought some cordovan (Horween) derby from Churchs some time ago thinking that they were going to get that kind of patina that Aldens colour 8 gets and, unfortunately, it never happened. easily my fav shoes for the summers. Never been big on even smart chukkas or chelseas either unfortunately, especially because the Canadian west coast is a relentless sea of Blundstones. They looked like E.T. . I live in Atlanta but regularly travel to NY for work and have been trying to plan a work trip for next week to coincide with the NY pop-up; sadly I dont think it will work out but will hopefully get an opportunity next time in NY or London. Incidentally, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon? Thank you! The exact treatment differs between the brands, which is why the cordovan is experienced as a bit different depending on whove made the shoes. I think its because the cordovan is a single, flat colour and so doesnt get as much of the variation of other colours like no 8 shown here. I would have figured it to be more formal. I used to feel the same way about suede as you once did about cordovan. No doubt youve covered this somewhere else. And I prefer the Alden shade of the colour 8 cordovan too. Im a little particular about a belt being similar i colour to the shoe colour. Hot spoon and burn it back as I did with army boots decades ago? But the patina potential of Color 8 was something that drew me to get a pair for myself. In terms of smartness, versatility, style? And they can both be brushed out. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Crockett & Jones Harvard loafers: Review, Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage, https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215, https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/, https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america, https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1, https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319, https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed, this article on shoes with brown trousers. Would you not wear that with these jeans /similarly narrow trousers? P.A. Which makes it a bit confusing that unlined cordovan loafers is quite common, a model that also some of its buyers cant wear during warmer days at all. P.S. Those are extremely difficult or impossible to repair. It gleams like nobodys business in shops selling them, Once dry, brush. Spanish Carmina is one of the brands who treat the cordovan to make it withstand rain better. In your article about your Belgravian loafer, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile shoes. Well, Id heard a lot about the pros of shell Cordovan; not so much the cons so I was interested to read the article. Looking for suggestions and guidance. Speaking of black, I bought those EG loafers in black cordovan largely for its toughness, but it doesnt have the same variation as colour 8, and therefore charm. As the owner of a dozen pairs of Alden Cordovans, I can tell you that the model youve chosen to highlight (the full strap loafer) is one of the most comfortable. 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